The first edition ofHow to Reassess Your Chess was dedicated to .. How to Reassess Your Chess, 4th Edition was designed for players in the to. HOW TO REASSESS YOUR CHESS - 4TH EDITION. VIII. Free Range Bishops Are Happier Bishops. Bishops vs. Knights. The Great Breakout. Jeremy Silman - How to Reassess Your Chess - Ebook download as PDF File . pdf), For this third edition I have created new chapters, added lots of important .
|Language:||English, Spanish, French|
|Distribution:||Free* [*Sign up for free]|
As an American chessplayer, it pains me to see so many of my countrymen download . by the way, as well as the 3rd edition of Reassess, and the Silman endgame to download and read the 3rd and the 4th editions to become a top player like myself. How to reassess your chess: chess mastery through chess imbalances I by Jeremy Silman. -- 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. By Jeremy Silman. The way to think again Your Chess is the preferred step by step path that may create a marked development in anyone's.
Yes, Silman's "AM" deals more with strategy, than tactics. To me, this is exactly what makes it worth reading. Sep 25, 28 cigoL: Can you name strong GMs who recommend Silman's books to players seeking to improve their game? Maybe there are some, but I cannot think of any. On the other hand, I can name dozens of players who recommend the classical literature. Euwe's books were written in the ss. Pachman's book was written in the s.
My 60 Memorable Games which I have not studied yet was written before The opposition will be the means by which White succeeds or fails in his quest rook pawns form the exceptions and such situations will be studied at the end of this chapter. Diagram 8 is an extremely common position. White is a pawn ahead and wishes to advance it to eS. Black means to prevent this and at the moment is firmly blocking its path. Nevertheless, White can force the advance of his pawn.
Black's ability to draw depends on his knowledge of the opposition and his keeping control of the queening square eS. Kf2 Ke5 I have often. After 2. Kf3 Black's King is no longer blocking the pawn and must sit on the sidelines and watch it promote. Kf3 Kf5 3. Ke3 White has the opposition and Black has to give ground.
After this fine move White can only keep the opposition by playing S. Ke2 which does nothing to help advance the pawn or S.
Ke4 which is illegal. Black's plan is simple: He intends to always jump in front of the pawn when possible. For example, if Black had played Kf6 White would play S. Kf4 and take the opposition. Kf4 Else Black would go back to eS. Kf6 Once again, if Black had played Kf6 then S. Kf4 leaves Black to move and White with the opposition. After the correct Kf4 Kf6 we have the same position but with White to move-thus Black is the one who has gained the opposition.
Ke4 Temporarily taking the opposition. Ke7 Continuing to step straight back. Now White would have to play 8. KeS in order to retain the opposition. Since this is illegal, it will once again switch over to Black. Kd5 Kd7 Obviously not Kd6 when White is allowed to come forward. Ke5 KeSI When it counts the most. Any other move would lose. For example, Kd6 Ke8 Kd7 when White has gained control of e8 and will easily queen his pawn.
Kf5 Hoping for Kf6 would take the opposition and win after KeS Ke7 Always jump in front of the pawn when possible. Ke5 KeS! Kf6 Kf8 Ke6 Stalemate and thus drawn. Get a friend to take the King and pawn while you try to save the game with the lone King. Use a chess clock and give yourself twenty seconds the player with the King and pawn can take as much time as he wants for an infinite number of moves.
After a few practice sessions thought will not be necessary-your hand will know how to draw this in your sleep.
King, White's main hope to win occurs when his King is in front of the pawn. Diagram 9 illustrates this point. White to move is a draw because Black has the opposition: Kd3 Kd5 2. Kc3 Ke4 or 2. Ke3 KeS are no better. Ke5 3. Ke3 Ke6 with an easy draw as in diagram 8.
Black to move from Diagram 9 is a different story. White now has the opposition and wherever the Black King moves it will allow White's monarch to advance: Kd5 The same type of play follows KfS 2. Kd4 while Kd6 2. Kd4 Ke6 3. Ke4 Kd6 4KfS is also not difficult. Kf41 White wants to control the pawn's queening square. The rule to follow is: Advance your King as far as possible without endangering the pawn, making sure to take the opposition at the critical moments.
With the King far advanced White can take the opposition at any time because he will always have tempo moves with his pawn. Kd6 Other tries:. Kd4 3. KfS is also good Kc5 4. Kc6 S. Ke6 Kc7 6. Kf6 6. Ke7 Kf7 7. Kd7 Ke8 8. Retaking the. Kf5 Ke7 Or Kd5 4. Kf6 4. Ke5 Kf7 5. Kd6 Kf6 6. Kd7 Kf6 8. Kd6 wastes time. KeS Else White would play 8. Kd7 with control over e8.
Grabbing the opposition. Naturally 8. Kd8 with a draw. Kds 9. Kf7 White has gained control of the critical e8 square and will shortly queen his pawn. Diagram 10 is similar to diagram 9 but here White wins irrespective of whose move it is because he has the opposition thanks to the pawn move available to him. White to move would play 1. As a player gains more experience he will discover that a Rook pawn will often provide exceptions to rules that we normally take for granted see diagram Usually such a fine King position for White would guarantee him the win.
In this case however, Black will experience no difficulties in drawing because he cannot be flushed out of the corner. Kg6 KgS 4. Diagram 12 shows another strange Rook pawn result. Black, who has no material at all, stalemates the stronger side. Kh6 Kg8 is also a basic draw, as was seen in diagram Kf8 2.
Khs Or 2. Kg6 Kg8, etc. Kf7 3. It's clear that the opposition doesn't mean much when the only remaining pawn is a Rook pawn. White must control the queening square and avoid having his King trapped in the corner if he hopes to win.
To complete our discussion of King and pawn endgames, let's touch upon an old fashioned pawn vs. King foot race. If a King is far away from an enemy pawn, how can you tell if it will arrive in time to stop it from queening?
Is it a matter of calculation? No, it's actually quite a simple process. Diagram 13 shows a quick and easy method. Create a diagonal extension from a4 to e8 and side extension a4 to e4 from the pawn.
Connect up its points and make a border. If the King is not within or on this border the pawn will promote. In the diagram 13 , Black to move draws by Ke8 or Ke7 or Ke6, all of which are on the border. White to move wins by 1. Endings with just Rooks and pawns are the most common form of endgame.
The two basic positions that must be thoroughly known in Rook endings are the Lucena and Philidor positions. The Lucena Position is the key to understanding any Rook endgame. It is the position that the stronger side strives to achieve. Diagram 14 shows the beginnings ofLucena's position. Here many beginners try things like 1. Rh8 Ra2 4. Kd8 White is not getting anywhere. Correct is 1. Kc8 wins instantly for White. This leads us to our first major rule of Rook endgames: It is always a good idea to trap the enemy King as jar away as possible jrom the scene oj action.
This rule applies to all Rook endgames. Ke7 2. The key to this endgame this Rook maneuver, for some reason or other, is called "building a bridge". The logical 2. Kc7 fails to The point of 2. Rd4' is that White's King can now come out since it will have the Rook to block the checks. Ke6 3. Kc6 Rb2 The point of White's play is best seen after Rb4 with an immediate win. Also good is 6. Rd5 followed by S. I should mention that Black had a trap in mind, namely 6. Rb5 Kf5 7. Rc4 followed by S.
Kc7 and 9. It is clear that the defender must not allow the opponent to gain the Lucena Position. In general, don't allow the side with the extra pawn to get his King in front of his pawn. Another thing that the defending side must avoid is the dreaded passive Rook. Diagram 15 shows a typical example. Black loses because his Rook is passively placed on the back rank. If he ever tries to move to a more active post via something like Rg1 if it was Black to move then 2.
RhS would mate him. Ra7 This idea of switching over to the other side is very important because it shows that Black's Rook was not really controlling the whole back rank after all.
Kbs 2. Ra7 And not 1.
KdS with a draw since White's Rook can no longer swing over to a7. Never push this pawn unless it is immediately decisive. The pawn acts as cover for your King-pushing it destroys that cover.
Rbl Not completely necessary but it is always a good idea to put one's Rook on a safe square far away from the enemy King. Now Black's King is trapped out of play. This leaves us in a King and pawn vs. Rook situation which will inevitably lead to the loss of Black's Rook.
Kc7, S. Kd7 Rc2 5. KdS Rd2 7. Rb4 with a Lucena Position. Lest White get the idea that he can win any passive Rook situation, let me point out that a Knight pawn or Rook pawn form an exception to the usual rules see diagram The game is drawn because White's Rook cannot successfully Switch over to the other side of the board simply because there is no other side to go to!
For example: Ra7 l. Rg8 Rhl intending Rg8 White cannot make progress since 2. If Black For illustrative purposes mack is often considered the inferior side is in a Rook and pawn vs. Rook situation he can usually draw by avoiding a passive Rook, avoiding the Lucena Position, and making use of Philidor's defensive plan. Diagram 18 is a seemingly strong position for White, who is a pawn up with more active pieces.
Nevertheless, Black draws easily by Inferior is Rgl 2. Kd6 when Ra7 leads to a hopeless passive Rook position as in diagram 18 , while Ke6 forces Black's King out of its hole.
However, even after the inferior Kd6 Black can draw by playing like a genius: Ke8 6. Ke6 Kf8! Here we come to an important rule. The reason for this is that later you may wish to check his King from the side.
In that case Black would move his Rook to the a-file so that there is as much room as possible between the enemy King and his Rook. If the Black King went to d8 and subsequently to c7 it might get in the way of the Rook's checking powers on the.
Ra8 Re2 pass 9. Kd6 Kf7! And not Kc7 lO. So it's clear that Black can draw even without Why make things difficult? It's very easy after Since Black simply intends to pass with moves like Rb6, etc. Activating the Rook only after the pawn is pushed. White now has no pawn shelter and a draw results since Rh4 Black can get an easy draw by Ke7 or he can trade Rooks and go into a dead drawn King and pawn endgame.
The Pbilidor technique may seem somewhat complicated to some of you. However, just a little work will make it easy to understand. Kotov quoting a mysterious 'chess sage. At some time or other every tournament player learns a few opening lines, some tactical ideas, and the most basic mating patterns. As he gets better and more experienced he adds to this knowledge.
However, the one thing that just about everybody has problems with is planning. From class 'E' to Master, I get blank stares when asking what plan they had in mind in a particular position. Usually their choice of plan if they have any plan at all is based on emotional rather than scientific considerations. By emotional I mean that the typical player does what he feels like doing rather than what the board wants him to do. If you want to be successful, you have to base your plans on specific Criteria on the board, not on your mood at any given time!
An example of this can almost certainly be found in a large number of your tournament games. In the thick of battle with your clock ticking, how many times have you decided that you want to mate the enemy King? The position may call for. When victory comes usually against weaker opposition you congratulate yourself on a brilliant concept.
When defeat appears a common occurrence you bemoan your fate and blame it on a particular move, your recent divorce, the noise level, the blonde across the hall, or a host of other excuses. What are the criteria that we are going to have to become aware of and how do we master their use? What, exactly, is a plan? Though every chess instructor sings the praises of planning, few authors bother to tell us what a plan is and, more importantly, how to create one.
In his excellent glossary of chess terms found in How to Open a Chess Game , Grandmaster Larry Evans avoids the problem by leaving out the word 'plan' altogether.
Kotov, in his classic work, Think Like a Grandmaster; teaches us how to calculate but neglects to explain planning to be fair I must mention that Mr. Kotov does address this question in his book Play Like a Grandmaster 3. However, his explanations tend to be over the head of the average player.
Even encyclopedic texts like the Oxford Companion to Chess" tries to make 'planning' a non-existent word. In order to promise success, planning is thus always based on a diagnosis of the existing characteristics of a position; it is therefore most difficult when the position is evenly balanced, and easiest when there is only one plan to satisfy the demands of the position.
Press, New York, Batsford Ltd. To define the word 'plan' does not necessarily mean that we know how to create one in an actual game.
As Golombek said, this calls for the ability to recognize the existing characteristics of a position. To successfully penetrate into the mysteries of the chess board you have to be aware of the magic word of chess:. An imbalance in chess denotes any difference in the two respective positions.
To think that the purpose of chess is solely to checkmate the opposing King is much too simplistic. The real goal of a chess game is to create an imbalance and try to build a situation in which it is favorable for you.
An understanding of this statement shows that an imbalance is not necessarily an advantage. It is simply a difference. It is the player's responsibility to turn that difference into an advantage. S Control of a key file or square files and diagonals act as pathways for your pieces, while squares act as homes. Recognizing these imbalances you will find definitions to all these terms in the Glossary at the end of this book and understanding their relationship to planning will be the main focus of this book.
If we are to use these things properly we must be able to break down our thinking in a way that allows us to dissect any particular position. Here are the stages of my thinking technique that enables us to accomplish this:. You can only play where a favorable imbalance or the possibility of creating a favorable imbalance exists.
Instead, dream up various fantasy positions, Le. If you find that your choice was not possible to implement, you must create another dream position that is easier to achieve. S Only now do you look at the moves you wish to calculate called candidate moves. The candidate moves are all the moves that lead to our dream position.
This will be discussed fully in Part Three of this book. Let's now take a look at this thinking technique in action. If it seems difficult don't panicl It just takes practice. Nobody ever said that getting your thoughts to work in a structured way would be easy! After the opening moves l. Nc3 Nf6 3. Bg2 5. Ba3 Re8 8. Qb3 d6 9. Ne2 Na6 lO.
Qc2 we get the position in diagram What should Black do? He wants to avoid simple developing moves like Be6 since they are not part of a particular plan. To say that your plan is just to develop your pieces is a cop-out! First find a plan and then develop your forces around it! Never mindlessly develop and expect to find a plan at some later point in the game. White has the two Bishop's, but at the moment the Bishop on g2 is inactive and the Black Knight on cS is very well placedthis Knight is just as good as any Bishop.
White has doubled pawns but they are not weak in this position. The c4 pawn gives White added control of the dS square while its siamese twin on c3 controls the d4 square, thus preventing Black from rushing a Knight there by The final imbalance of note is the lack of open files for the Rooks.
The only one available is the b-file, something that White can use if he so wishes. Keep in mind that we are just listing them, not Judging their respective values.
Remember that you should only play where ajavorable imbalance or the possibility oj creating one exists. This is extremely important! Let's say Black loved to attack. Nothing pleased him more than mating the opponent's King. Such a player would naturally look to the kingside first in just about any situation. In this case what factors exist on the kings ide that favor Black? The answer is none! With no White weakness there and few Black pieces aiming in that direction you won't mate with just the c8 Bishop and the f6 Knight Black has little to hope for on that wing.
Perhaps he is emotionally ready to start some sort of 'do or die' charge, but his position is not backing him up. Black must calm down and look elsewhere. Since the kingside doesn't seem to be the promised land, we will turn our attentions to the center. Here we have some hope for play because both our Knight's influence this sector of the board.
However, since there are no ready-made squares or weaknesses to go for, we would be forced to crack it open with a central advance. Thus a centrally based plan would revolve around the break with Since this type of advance would give us more central territory and potential open files for our Rooks it is worth pursuing.
Once we find an interesting path we go to our next step: Note that we are still not calculating any variations! A fantasy position is just that-a fantasy. We place the pieces wherever we want them in order to carry out the plan, in this case Here we note that our Knight on c5 would hang if we moved the d-pawn too quickly. So we must give this piece support. We also must be careful that the resultant opening up of the center does not activate White's Bishops.
To this end we would like to trade off or at least challenge White's Bishop on g2 this goes along with a rule that we will study in a later lesson: If the opponent has the two Bishops, trade one Bishop off. This will lead to a more manageable Bishop vs. Knight situation. To fulfill these ideas we come up with the following setup:. Notice what was done. Black just placed his pieces and pawns in the desired positions He then decides if achieving this leads anywhere. A glance at the diagram shows that Black would have good play.
However it must be admitted that the construction of this setup would take several moves. What would White be doing in the meantime? To answer this you would go through these same stages for your opponent. As it turns out, White's correct plan is to play for kings ide expansion by an f2-f4 advance. Notice that this can be done very quickly via So what we end up with is an interesting plan of central expansion for Black that would hopefully counteract White's theme of a kings ide pawn storm.
The one problem is timing; White's plan is faster than ours. If we decided that we wanted to play this way we would then look for the candidate moves, e. In this case only one move comes into consideration, namely 1l We would then analyze it and, if everything checked out we would store it away as a playable idea.
We still don't want to play it because We have yet to explore the possibility of a queenside plan. We now turn our attention to the queenside. Are there any: However our strong c5 Knight IS placed there and White's doubled pawns which at the moment are by no means weak are also on that side. Can we open lOes there? Yes, with To make matters even better, this pawn lies on a newly opened file.
Our plan would then be obvious: Move our Bishop, place a Rook on c8, and put pressure on White's weak and accessible pawn on c3. So it turns out that we have a choice. Play in the center or on the queenside. In the game Black chose the queenside simply because it is the faster plan. Note that Black is not worried about White playing BxcS since after A tough choice. Black wants to put his Rook on c8 as quickly as possible but he is not sure where to place his Bishop.
For rating it's good to work on mistake reduction and move choice abilities. I like the structure of Chess Blueprints. That made me doubt the quality of rest of the book. My System is definitely a difficult book; I and many posters have said that above. It's the reason I didn't recommend it to the OP. Try Simple Chess by Michael Stean.
What USCF rating level do you think it would be most helpful for? Is there another book you would recommend reading instead? Silman asks the question: I think you will love the book he will take your game to the next level.
Silman books are excellent and he is an excellent teacher. But in my humble opinion books are overrated and overemphasized. Here are the things to do if you really want to improve. Play in OTB tournaments. When you sit down give it your all with total concentration. After the game analyze it with your opponent and other players. Move the pieces around and try to absorb patterns and ideas.
Passive reading does little. You have to work hard and practice to get better. There are many players who have a lot of knowledge but play poorly.
There are many strong practical players who know surpringly little, but play extremely well. Okay, I'm getting curious. I really like Silman's "AM". Please explain why it not good. I ask again. Why are Silman's books not worth reading? Please explain why the content isn't good, don't talk about the man. How he does in tournaments are not so important. It's the content that matters. I'm always amazed about the people criticizing Silman's work.
I myself am busy studying "Amateur's Mind", and I have read a multitude of Silman's articles, all of which were very helpful. Even worse, they "skim" through the book, and when the table of contents does not cover some section they liked in another book, they cry foul. Almost NO wins for the player if any wins at all. Yet, these players still boast about the "lack of knowledge" displayed in these people's books and articles.
Amazing, isn't it? The point I'm trying to make is, if you are not playing at their level, rather keep quiet in your corner and learn from them, because you have to opportunity to "sidestep" some of pitfalls they fell into.