Mastering Composition in Digital Photography: Creative Techniques for Capturing DSLR Photography for Beginners: Best Way to Learn Digital Photography. selling authors of digital camera guides, digital photography, and imaging to see that a book about digital SLR cameras should cover both the cameras. Basic principles of photography Fast-forward years: the digital single lens reflex camera (DSLR) Digital cameras employ an electronic sensor consisting.

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Digital Slr Photography Pdf

been a 'professional photography' element added into this manual, where . At nbafinals.info you can learn how use your digital SLR camera. Digital SLR Photography - September pdf - Free download as PDF File . pdf) or read online for free. Canon DSLR: the ultimate photographer's guide. – (Digital gov/iad// docs/Public%20SP%%20November%pdf. I wrote earlier that.

Best shooting modes Important Camera aperture tips among others. You are in the best site ever to publish these rare DSLR photography tips that you must know. Whether it is your first time with a DSLR camera or you have been used to the automatic settings, relax and learn some of the DSLR photography tips that will boost your skills. Most of us are used to the old cameras. The settings from various brands such as Nikon and Canon are also different.

So whilst you worry about what shutter speed you need for a given photograph, the camera will determine the appropriate aperture required to give the correct exposure. In program mode, you are able to set either the aperture or shutter speed, and the camera will maintain the correct exposure by adjusting the other one accordingly, i. This gives you additional freedom that using either aperture priority or shutter priority cannot give without switching between shooting modes.

Manual M Manual mode is exactly what it sounds like, you are given full control over the exposure determination, setting both the aperture and shutter speed yourself. Practically Speaking: ISO is a measure of how sensitive the sensor of your camera is to light. The term originated in film photography, where film of different sensitivities could be used depending on the shooting conditions, and it is no different in digital photography. The ISO sensitivity is represented numerically from ISO low sensitivity up to ISO high sensitivity and beyond, and controls the amount of light required by the sensor to achieve a given exposure.

Low ISO numbers If shooting outside, on a bright sunny day there is a lot of available light that will hit the sensor during an exposure, meaning that the sensor does not need to be very sensitive in order to achieve a correct exposure.

This will give you images of the highest quality, with very little grain or noise. High ISO numbers If shooting in low light conditions, such as inside a dark cathedral or museum for example, there is not much light available for your camera sensor.

A high ISO number, such as ISO , will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, effectively multiplying the small amount of available light to give you a correctly exposed image.

This multiplication effect comes with a side effect of increased noise on the image, which looks like a fine grain, reducing the overall image quality. This image was taken as the sun was going down, meaning there was not much ambient light.

Outside on a sunny day, select ISO and see how it goes.

If it clouds over, maybe select an ISO between If you move indoors, consider an ISO of around or above these are approximate starting points. Auto-ISO is a very useful tool when starting out with your camera, as it is allows you to define an upper limit i.

25 Common Photography Terms All Beginners Need to Know

Discover more about how to use ISO. They all control either the amount of light entering the camera aperture, shutter speed or the amount of light required by the camera ISO for a given exposure.

Therefore, they are all linked, and understanding the relationship between them is crucial to being able to take control of your camera. A change in one of the settings will impact the other two.

Therefore, to balance the exposure, you could do the following:. Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all facotrs that influence your exposure, and are all linked. They all have the net effect of reducing the amount of light by a factor of 4, countering the change in aperture. Read more about the Exposure Triangle. Through out all of the above discussion, I have said that the camera calculates the exposure depending on the amount of available light, but what is it actually doing?

When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation e. This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it. Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it.

The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed. However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered. Practically speaking: They will both provide a fairly consistent measure of the exposure required and, if you select one mode and stick with it, you will soon begin to understand when a scene will be under exposed i.

That is where exposure compensation comes in. A Beginners Guide to Metering Modes. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene. A spring lamb leaping in front of a snowy hillside. Straight out of camera, with the snow caught as grey.

The bright snowy background caused my camera to underexpose this scene by nearly two stops, which could have been corrected by exposure compensation in camera. Regardless of what shooting mode you are using, or what ISO you define, the chances are there will be a subject of your image that you want to have in focus. If that focus is not achieved, the image will not be what you wanted. AF-S — autofocus-single. This is best used when taking photos of stationary subjects such as portraits of people, landscapes, buildings etc.

When you half-press the shutter, the focus will be acquired and locked on that point for as long as you hold the button down.

If you want to change to focus, you need to release the button, recompose and then re-half-press. AF-C — autofocus-continuous.

This is best used when taking photos of action or moving subjects such as sports and wildlife. When you half-press the shutter, focus will be acquired and locked on to a given subject.

The Ultimate Guide to Learning how to use Your first DSLR

When that subject moves, the focus will adjust with it, refocusing all of the time until the photograph is taken. That switch is an override for if you want to manually focus your lens. If you want to make use of the autofocus modes discussed above, ensure the lens is set to AF. Understanding Focus Modes. Focus Points Both of those focus modes rely on what are known as focus points.

When you half-press the shutter, you should see one of these squares be highlighted in red. That is the active focus point, and it is that position within the frame that the camera is focussing on. A viewfinder with 9 focus points is shown below:. New DSLRs can come with over 50 focus points and the temptation is to leave it on fully automatic focus point selection, with the thinking that the camera will be able to select the correct focus point.

Therefore, to balance the exposure, you could do the following: Situation 1: Reduce the shutter speed by a factor of 4, i. Situation 2: Reduce the ISO by a factor of 4, i. Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all facotrs that influence your exposure, and are all linked.

They all have the net effect of reducing the amount of light by a factor of 4, countering the change in aperture. Further Reading: Read more about the Exposure Triangle. Master Metering Through out all of the above discussion, I have said that the camera calculates the exposure depending on the amount of available light, but what is it actually doing? When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation e. This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it.

Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it. The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed.

However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered. Practically speaking: when starting out with your camera, either average or centre weighted metering are a good starting point.

They will both provide a fairly consistent measure of the exposure required and, if you select one mode and stick with it, you will soon begin to understand when a scene will be under exposed i. That is where exposure compensation comes in. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene.

A spring lamb leaping in front of a snowy hillside.

Left: Straight out of camera, with the snow caught as grey. The bright snowy background caused my camera to underexpose this scene by nearly two stops, which could have been corrected by exposure compensation in camera. Learn About Focussing Regardless of what shooting mode you are using, or what ISO you define, the chances are there will be a subject of your image that you want to have in focus.

If that focus is not achieved, the image will not be what you wanted. This is best used when taking photos of stationary subjects such as portraits of people, landscapes, buildings etc. When you half-press the shutter, the focus will be acquired and locked on that point for as long as you hold the button down.

Digital SLR Photography - September 2014.pdf

If you want to change to focus, you need to release the button, recompose and then re-half-press. AF-C — autofocus-continuous. This is best used when taking photos of action or moving subjects such as sports and wildlife.

When you half-press the shutter, focus will be acquired and locked on to a given subject. When that subject moves, the focus will adjust with it, refocusing all of the time until the photograph is taken.

That switch is an override for if you want to manually focus your lens. If you want to make use of the autofocus modes discussed above, ensure the lens is set to AF. When you half-press the shutter, you should see one of these squares be highlighted in red.

That is the active focus point, and it is that position within the frame that the camera is focussing on. A viewfinder with 9 focus points is shown below: New DSLRs can come with over 50 focus points and the temptation is to leave it on fully automatic focus point selection, with the thinking that the camera will be able to select the correct focus point. However, only you know what you want to focus on, and there is no better way than ensuring the correct subject is in focus than by using one focus point, and placing that focus point over the subject.

MASTERING Digital SLR Photography - Index of

If you select a single focus point, you should be able to change which point is active fairly easily either by using directional buttons one of the dials. If you select a focus point that is on your desired subject, you will ensure that the camera focuses where you want it to. After a small amount of practice, you will soon get into the habit of being able to change the focus point without taking the camera away form your eye.

This way, you will be able to choose what you are focussing on, ensuring that the subject you want to capture is in focus. Once you are familiar with the basic focussing modes and focus point selection, you can then explore the more advanced modes that your camera may offer. Understand File Size and Types You will have the option to be able to change the size of the images that your camera records, and in which file type.

A raw file is uncompressed, and so contains a lot of image data that allows for a lot of flexibility during post-processing i. A jpeg is a compressed file type, that is automatically processed by the camera.

Practically speaking: When starting out with your camera, using jpeg is the most straight forward. It will enable you to get the best results whilst you learn the basics or your camera before complicating matters with post-processing of raw files.

Learn about White balance If shooting in jpeg, as recommended above, you will need to make sure you set your white balance before taking a picture. The white balance can significantly impact colour tone of your photographs. You may have noticed that sometimes your images have a blueish tone to them or, in others, everything looks very orange. This is to do with the white balance and, whilst you can make some adjustments to the image on your computer, it is much simpler if you get it right up-front.

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